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Tag Archives: Estonia

Kreenholm – a post-industrial, captivating wilderness

29 Monday Jan 2024

Posted by Tim Bird in Uncategorized

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architecture, Estonia, history, kreenholm, narva, travel, travelphotography, visitestonia

Images from the enormous, derelict textile factory of Kreenholm in the Estonian city of Narva, directly on the border with Russia. An ongoing project consisting of an exploration in photos of this extraordinary deserted factory.

The island of Kreenholm is in the river marking the boundary between Narva in Estonia and Ivangorod in Russia. The factory premises include a labyrinth of production halls that were once filled with weaving looms and spinning machines, employing thousands of people. Eventually becoming one of the world’s biggest textile mills, it was founded in 1856 by German industrialist Ludwig Knoop. During the Soviet era, it accounted for about 8% of the USSR’s total textile production. After Estonian Independence in 1991, the factory continue to operate but in 2008 the last loom was turned off, with sewing and finishing operations closing down two years later. It’s been disused and derelict ever since, populated by birds, mice and foxes.

The reservoir serving the water needs of both bordering countries is to the east of the factory, leading to the giant Lake Peipsi. In the spring, the damn between river and reservoir is opened and spectacular rapids tumble down towards the border crossings between the two towns.

Concerts have been held in the factory courtyards, and in a more peaceful era, when cross-border visits would be easier and more friendly, the massive investment required to renovate and develop the area might be realised. Meanwhile, the buildings stand eerily empty but full of architectural surprises, including the ornate crowns of the cast pillars still holding up the ceilings in the production halls. It’s a fairly niche tourism attraction, but visitors are always astonished at the scale and details of the complex. These range from those ornate pillars to alcoholic drink labels and Hollywood pinups, the remains of worker relaxation, on the walls, themselves peeling in pastel flakes of fading paint. I was astonished myself when I visited for the first time in spring 2023 (luckily coinciding with the dramatic release of the water to feed those rapids), and on my second visit in January 2024 when everything was covered by a sparkling sheen of frost and the rapids were frozen over.

Near the entrance there’s a memorial, screened by shrubs and bushes that are gradually reclaiming the red-brick and sand stone surroundings, commemorating a strike by women workers in 1872.

These images will be the eventually expanding result of various visits.

The factory is not generally open – you need to arrange a visit. If you happen to visit Narva and you want to visit Kreenholm, you can make an appointment for a tour through the Narva Museum.

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Six Picks: the Estonian island of Hiiumaa

20 Wednesday May 2015

Posted by Tim Bird in Estonia, Travel, travel photography

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Baltic, Estonia, Hiiumaa, Kaptenite Villa, Kärdla, natural environment

A lamentably irregular photo blog, presenting half-dozen selections from my archives and/or recent travels. Find more at www.timbirdphotography.com

Apologies for absence. I haven’t been blogging for a while, but a long weekend of cycling and hiking on the lovely island of Hiiumaa off the Estonian Baltic coast has moved me to share some shots.

We reached Hiiumaa by bus from Tallinn, the capital. The bus ticket includes the hour-long ferry ride from Haapsalu on the mainland – itself worth an exploration, with its old wooden quarter, intimate local bars and castle. In the island ‘capital’ Kärdla, we stayed at the Kaptenite Villa (their website seems to be under maintenance currently, and it was formerly known as Villa Loona), a very hospitable guesthouse run by mother and daughter Maria and Sigrid, whose breakfasts lived up to their ‘luxurious’ billing. Highly recommended as a base for a visit.

Like its bigger and better known neighbour island Saaremaa, Hiiumaa was a ‘closed’ island during Estonia’s Soviet era, with military bases dotted around the coastline. This ‘closed’ status, which forbade visits by foreigners and most Estonians, means that the natural environment is especially well preserved.

My friends and I rented bicycles and braved the elements (Estonia in the spring can be cold and blustery). Here are a few highlights:

hiiumaa-0653

Tahkuna Lighthouse, one of several lighthouses on the island and the site of a memorial to the wreck of the MS Estonia in September 1994.

swaledale-0605

The entrance to a military museum near Tahkuna is marked by a Soviet tank with flowers placed in its barrel.

hiiumaa-0515

The shingle spit at Sääre tirp, with millpond calm to the east and angry seas to the west.

hiiumaa-0489

Barrel chalet accommodation in the community of Kassari.

hiiumaa-0449

Grazing sheep at Orjaku

hiiumaa-0441

Wild spring flowers – cowslips and forget-me-nots – in a meadow close to Kärdla, Hiiumaa’s main town.

I strongly recommend a visit to Hiiumaa. Meanwhile, I hope you enjoyed this brief introduction to an Estonian treasure. Welcome back, and please share, shout, tweet, hoot and Google Plus as much as you like – but please give credit where it’s due and remember copyright is MINE, ALL MINE!

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